Before starting on this, let me say that any custom detailing project will take a certain amount of kit-bashing skills, tools (drill bits, files, etc), and patience.  My goal here is to do the best I can to point you in the right direction.  As you go along you may want to modify a step or add a part to meet your individual desire.  That is what custom model building is all about.  At this point, we have not listed certain specifications such as exact measurements or drill sizes, but that should be fairly easy to determine by looking at the parts in the kit, and checking the placement from the following pictures.  Good luck with your modeling!
Fig. 1 - Sizing up the injector	Fig. 2 - Trimming the pipes to fit	Fig. 3 - Finished injector ready for mounting
You will want to sort out all pieces prior to beginning.   Take the injectors (shown above) and carefully straighten out the lines.   Measure up the injector on the side of the loco to determine where to cut the pipes in order to fit (Fig. 1).   The approximate size of what the injector should be is seen in Fig. 2.   Be sure to save the left over pipe for later use.
Fig. 4 - Mounted in place	Fig. 5 - Cut and form a piece of water line	Fig. 6 - The water piping mounted
After the injector has been trimmed to fit, place a small amount of gel glue on the body and piping, and carefully set in place, as shown in Fig 4.   It will set up quickly.   Next, take the piece of pipe that was left over and bend it as shown in Fig. 5.   Apply a drop of gel on both ends and on the surface that rests on the boiler, then carefully place the long end into the dimple of the injector and set in place.   Fig. 6 shows the completed step.   Do the same on the opposite side of the loco as well.
Fig. 7 - Measure up the side piping	Fig. 8 - Cutting slots in the walk way for the pipe hangers	Fig. 9 - Side piping unit mounted in place
With the D1120 and D1121 kits, the side piping units are included.  This next section will deal with mounting that unit.  There are basically 2 ways to mount the piping unit.   One is to bend the pipe hangers at a right angle and glue in place under the walk way, the second is to cut slots in the walkway and slip each hanger into the corresponding slot.   Although it is a bit trickier to do, I use the cut-in method to make sure the unit is fastened securely.   You will need to line up the piping unit to the loco for careful marking of the hangers on the walkway as shown in Fig. 7.   Next, using a razor saw, make a small cut the width of the hanger (Fig. 8).   Measure up the unit several times while marking the next cuts so the marks will line up correctly with the hangers.   Any strain one way or another from incorrect spacing may result in the piping unit appearing bent, so take your time and cut carefully.   After all cuts are complete, test your unit out to see where the cab hanger will mount.   You may have to adjust the hangers somewhat to get the desired results.   When the unit is ready to mount, bend the pipes behind the cab at a right angle and let it run under the back of the cab.   You may cut off any excess from that area.   Make sure there is ample room in the front part of the unit as well.   When all looks like a good fit, place some glue gel on each slot and on the hanger that goes inside the cab, and fit in place.   Adjust the piping unit and let it set up.   After the glue is set hard, trim the ends with nippers and file smooth with the top of the walk way.
Fig. 10 - Mark and drill hole for compressor	Fig. 11 - Glue and mount compressor	Fig. 12 -Drill and mount front bell and marker lights
Next we will mount the compressor.  There are several ways and locations to mount this important piece, but we will illustrate how Mantua did it on their detailed locos.   First, check placement on the left side under the boiler, shown in Fig. 10.   Mark and drill a hole that will accommodate the stud on the unit (note: some compressors may have 2 mounting studs on back.  If so, clip the bottom one off and leave just the top one).   Apply gel on the stud and back of the compressor and set the unit in the correct position (as shown in Fig. 11).   Hold until set.   Next, drill the correct size holes in the smoke box front for the front marker lights and angle bell.   Look at Fig.12 for placement of those parts.   Apply glue gel to the studs and mount in the desired positions.
Fig. 13 - Drill and mount number boards	Fig. 14 - File off small platform where bell was on Mikado	Fig. 15 - Bell hole filled and filed smooth
Now it's time to drill and mount the number boards.   On both the Pacific and Mikado boilers there are flat areas to mount these on.   Check placement in Fig. 13, and drill a hole on both sides keeping them both identical in position.   Don't glue these in just yet as you may want to remove them while finishing up the project.   On the Mikado  boiler, you will want to file and fill the bell hole (Fig. 14).   I use a piece of solder to fill the hole in and then do a final filing and sanding to make that area smooth (Fig. 15).
Fig. 16 - Throttle linkage applied on Pacific, Hudson  -  On Mikado, linkage is made completely out of .020 brass wire
The next step is to place the steam generator on the top of the boiler in front of the cab.   On the Pacific, use the old hole where the bell was.   That hole will be larger than needed, so you will need to fill it with glue gel prior to placing the generator.   After placement, let the gel set up for several minutes before moving.    On the Mikado boiler, you will need to drill a hole for the unit and glue in place.   Fig. 16 shows the appropriate placement of the generator unit on top.   Also shown in the picture is the last step of our locomotive detailing, making the throttle linkage.   On the Pacific, you will find the holes already drilled for the linkage rod holders, and the linkage connectors are molded in the boiler (again, refer to Fig. 16).   On the Mikado boiler, you will have to drill holes for the linkage holders (small flat handrail posts).   Also, you will have to bend the wire in the middle and at the end to simulate the linkage connectors.   With this step completed, your loco now has the basic kit installed and only lacks being painted, lettered, and the small jewels for the front marker lights set in place with a pinpoint drop of glue.

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